A QUEER HISTORY OF TARTAN TIMELINE
Scotland has dressed the world. Although certain parties would love to claim tartan as a conservative political tool, it has a long history of use by the queer community and allies. From plaid flannel shirts worn by lesbians to Alan Cumming in a yellow tartan suit on Traitors to Grayson Perry in a tartan skirt, tartan is a staple of the LGBTQIA+ community. If you want to help stop Scotland being used for the anti-LGBTQIA+ agenda please register a tartan for your queer business or chosen family with the Scottish Government here.
We have 75 and counting. If you have any photos, suggestions or if you would like to donate any tartan items please get in touch. We are putting together a small exhibition.
2019
Céline Sciamma in a tartan scarf
Céline Sciamma is a celebrated French filmmaker known for her emotionally rich, visually restrained films that center queer and feminist narratives. She gained early acclaim with Water Lilies (2007) and Tomboy (2011), both exploring gender identity and adolescent desire. Her breakout success Portrait of a Lady on Fire (2019) won the Queer Palm at Cannes and is widely regarded as a modern queer classic, telling the story of a forbidden romance between two women in 18th-century France.
Sciamma’s work is known for subverting the male gaze, focusing instead on intimate, quiet moments that reveal the depth of relationships between women. As an openly lesbian director, she brings a rare authenticity to her storytelling. With later films like Petite Maman (2021), she continues to push boundaries, crafting cinema that is both deeply personal and universally resonant.
2019
Billy Connolly’s Tartan Day Parade kilt
Legendary Scottish comedian Sir Billy Connolly wore this kilt in 2019 when he led a procession of 3000 people through New York for the annual NYC Tartan Day Parade. The kilt joined the exhibition in October 2023 as part of The People’s Tartan, a collection of objects displayed throughout the exhibition following an appeal for the public's tartan treasures.
Throughout his career, Connolly has been a vocal supporter of LGBTQ+ rights and has often used his platform to challenge societal norms and prejudices.
2019
Mother Advertising Agency, London tartan branding
For Mother, all roads lead back to the kitchen table – or at least the family gathered around it. So say Peter Robertson and Susan Hosking, the creative agency’s two international executive creative directors. They are talking about the company’s rebrand, which has seen the agency adopt what it calls “clan-thinking” to redevelop the brand into a universal language of family and home, using tartan.
Mother is queer-friendly, with a strong focus on inclusion through its internal diversity platform, Kindred. This initiative aims to ensure all employees—regardless of identity—feel seen, heard, and supported in the workplace.
2018
Burberry check lined pride coat by Christopher Bailey
https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/fashion-week/g18219111/christopher-bailey-final-burberry-show/
Featuring a special Burberry check and rainbow runway lights, Christopher Bailey’s final Burberry show after 16 years, was a dedication to the LGBTQIA+ community. Riccardo Tisci, who succeeded Bailey until 2022, is also openly gay. Known for his inclusive approach to fashion, Tisci has collaborated with LGBTQ+ figures, including transgender model Lea T, whom he has described as his muse.
2018
Hannah Gadsby in a plaid shirt
Hannah Gadsby is an Australian comedian, writer, and actor whose groundbreaking work has redefined the boundaries of stand-up comedy. They gained international acclaim with their 2018 Netflix special Nanette, which deconstructed traditional comedic structures and delved into personal narratives about trauma, homophobia, and misogyny. This performance earned them a Peabody Award and a Primetime Emmy for Outstanding Writing for a Variety Special.
Identifying as genderqueer and using they/them pronouns, Gadsby often incorporates their experiences as a lesbian and neurodivergent individual into their work. Their subsequent specials, Douglas and Something Special, continue to blend humor with poignant social commentary. In 2021, Gadsby married producer Jenney Shamash, who has collaborated on their recent projects. Through their candid storytelling and advocacy, Gadsby has become a prominent voice in discussions about gender, sexuality, and mental health.
2018
Girli in tartan trousers
https://www.gaytimes.com/culture/girli-is-the-feminist-pansexual-pop-star-you-need-to-stan/
Girli, born Amelia Toomey in North London, is a British singer-songwriter known for her bold, genre-blending pop sound that often incorporates elements of punk and electronic music. Her lyrics frequently address themes of feminism, sexuality, queer culture, and mental health.
Openly bisexual, Girli uses her platform to advocate for LGBTQ+ rights and mental health awareness. Her music serves as a form of protest and self-expression, resonating with fans who appreciate her candidness and activism.
2017
Kilted Yoga
https://www.finlay-wilson.com
Finlay Wilson, widely known as the "Kilted Yoga" guy, is a Scottish yoga teacher and LGBTQ+ advocate who gained international fame in 2017 with his viral video showcasing yoga routines performed in a kilt amidst Scotland's scenic landscapes. Beyond his yoga practice, Wilson has been an active advocate for LGBTQ+ visibility and rights.
2017
Wildfang tartan suits
Wildfang is a U.S.-based fashion brand known for its gender-inclusive designs and commitment to challenging traditional norms in fashion. Founded in Portland, Oregon, Wildfang offers a range of clothing that blends traditionally masculine and feminine styles, catering to a diverse clientele seeking expressive and non-conforming fashion choices.
The brand was co-founded by Emma McIlroy, a proud Northern Irish entrepreneur from Belfast. Before launching Wildfang, McIlroy worked with prominent organizations such as the Premier League and Nike. Her experiences in these roles highlighted the limitations of traditional fashion norms, inspiring her to create a brand that celebrates individuality and challenges gender stereotypes. McIlroy's Northern Irish roots and her commitment to inclusivity have been integral to Wildfang's mission and identity.
The brand has often incorporated tartan patterns into its collections. This inclusion aligns with Wildfang's ethos of reimagining classic patterns and styles through a modern, inclusive lens, allowing for a blend of cultural homage and contemporary fashion.
2017
Susan Calman in a red tartan dress
Susan Calman is a Scottish comedian, writer, and presenter known for her clever, heartfelt humour and appearances on shows like QI, Mock the Week, and Strictly Come Dancing. Formerly a corporate lawyer, she shifted to comedy in the mid-2000s and quickly rose to national fame.
Openly lesbian, Calman is a strong advocate for LGBTQ+ rights and often weaves her personal experiences into her work. She married her partner, Lee Cormack, in 2015, and has spoken openly about the importance of marriage equality and mental health awareness, particularly through her memoir Cheer Up Love.
2017
Pride of LGBT tartan, Scottish Tartan Register
Designer: Wilton, Brian
Tartan date: 01/06/2017
John Webster, John Morison Kiltmakers & Weavers, 63 High St., Edinburgh, EH1 1SR 0131 556 0666 john@jmkilts.com
Registration notes:A watershed for the modern LGBT movement arose from a series of protests in New York in 1969 and to pay homage to all those involved, this tartan is based on the New York City tartan and incorporates the variety of bright colours used to identify that movement around the world.
2016
T.S. Madison in a tartan dress
T.S. Madison, born Madison Hinton in Miami, is a groundbreaking entertainer, actress, and LGBTQ+ activist. She first rose to fame through viral social media clips, using her charisma and unapologetic personality to build a loyal following. Before entering mainstream entertainment, Madison worked in the adult industry, openly discussing her experiences as a Black trans woman facing discrimination and economic hardship.
She made history with The TS Madison Experience, becoming the first Black trans woman to star in and executive produce her own reality TV series. Madison has since become a regular judge on RuPaul’s Drag Race, appeared in films like Zola and Bros, and was featured on Beyoncé’s song “Cozy.” In 2025, she opened the TS Madison Starter House in Atlanta to support formerly incarcerated Black trans women—further cementing her role as both a cultural icon and community advocate.
2015
Violet Chachki tartan drag outfit
https://www.vam.ac.uk/dundee/articles/tartan-highlights
https://youtu.be/SBe8lZJav9M?si=pAz5ZUYYq6lgbVbc
Violet Chachki is an American drag queen who turned Tartan on its head with this statement look from RuPaul’s Drag Race – a global TV phenomenon which searches for the ‘next drag superstar’.
Whilst on the TV catwalk, Chachki unbuckled a black sequinned gown to reveal a tartan-spangled jumpsuit, whilst declaring ‘I’m giving you tartan eleganza!’, a sensational example of tartan’s enduring importance in high couture fashion and streetwear, as well as its ability to cross genders with an air of rebellion.
2015
Carol (Film) tartan dressing gown, tammy hat and scarf
Carol (2015), directed by Todd Haynes and based on Patricia Highsmith’s novel The Price of Salt, is a quietly powerful love story set in 1950s New York. The film follows Therese, a young aspiring photographer, and Carol, a glamorous older woman trapped in a crumbling marriage. Their chance meeting sparks an intense and tender romance that unfolds against a backdrop of social repression and personal risk.
What makes Carol so groundbreaking — both in literature and on screen — is its refusal to punish its protagonists for their love. At a time when most queer stories ended in tragedy, Carol offers a rare sense of hope and authenticity. The film’s lush cinematography, meticulous period detail, and hauntingly restrained performances by Cate Blanchett and Rooney Mara capture the ache and beauty of a love that dares to exist. It’s a milestone in lesbian cinema, celebrating queer desire with elegance, depth, and dignity.
2014
Sir Ian McKellen showing off a tartan tie
Sir Ian McKellen is not only one of the most celebrated actors of his generation but also a pioneering LGBTQ+ activist. Coming out publicly as gay in 1988, during the heated debate over Section 28—a UK law that sought to ban the "promotion of homosexuality"—McKellen used his platform to challenge homophobia and advocate for equal rights. He co-founded Stonewall UK, one of the country’s most influential LGBTQ+ advocacy organisations, and has continued to campaign tirelessly for issues such as marriage equality, education, and global queer rights. His openness and grace have made him a beloved figure within the queer community and a symbol of integrity across generations.
As a proud Englishman with deep ties to British theatre and culture, McKellen has also embraced tartan as part of his public persona, especially when appearing at events in Scotland or representing queer pride in heritage-rooted settings. While he doesn’t wear it as a daily uniform, he has donned kilts and tartan scarves on various occasions, often blending classic tradition with his own dignified flamboyance. His presence in tartan symbolizes how far the fabric has come—from once being banned as a threat to the crown, to being worn proudly by one of the most knighted and outspoken queer figures in British history.
2013
Alexander McQueen tartan
https://blog.metmuseum.org/alexandermcqueen/dress-highland-rape/
Highland Rape collection, Autumn/Winter 1995–96
As of April 2025, the creative director of Alexander McQueen is Seán McGirr who is openly queer. Alexander McQueen was openly queer.
2013
Karl Lagerfeld, Chanel - Tilda Swinton in tartan
Paris-Edimbourg – Inspired by the Scottish influence of Chanel’s pre-fall 2013 Paris-Edimbourg collection, the iconic fashion house tapped actress Tilda Swinton for the collection’s campaign. Creative Director Karl Lagerfeld lensed the Scottish blonde for the new advertisements set against a backdrop of medieval tapestries. Rich tartan and ornate embellishments bring a new twist to the transitional season.
Karl Lagerfeld and Tilda Swinton were and are both openly queer.
2013
Keith Collins
Keith Collins was Derek Jarman’s partner, companion, and primary caregiver during the last years of Jarman’s life. Often referred to in Jarman’s diaries as "HB"—short for "Home Boy"—Collins was known for his warmth, loyalty, and quiet presence. He was a former hairdresser and model, but largely stayed out of the public eye, becoming instead a central part of Jarman’s private world at Prospect Cottage in Dungeness.
Their relationship was deeply loving and steady, offering Jarman a sense of calm and grounding amid the chaos of illness and activism. Collins supported him through the progression of AIDS-related complications, including blindness, and was instrumental in helping him continue to work until the very end. He also contributed his voice to Blue, reading sections of Jarman’s reflections alongside Tilda Swinton, Nigel Terry, and John Quentin.
After Jarman’s death in 1994, Collins remained the custodian of Prospect Cottage and preserved it much as it was during Jarman’s lifetime. He lived there quietly until his own death in 2018, aged 54. His care and dedication helped ensure that Jarman’s legacy—and the unique spirit of Prospect Cottage—remained intact.
2013
Richard Branson flashing in a kilt
Richard Branson has long been a vocal and committed ally to the LGBTQ+ community, using his platform and global business network to champion equality and inclusion. As the founder of the Virgin Group, Branson has consistently supported LGBTQ+ rights through both corporate policy and personal advocacy. His work began early—at just 17, he co-founded the Student Advisory Centre in London, a support service that offered help to young LGBTQ+ individuals at a time when few resources existed. This spirit of inclusivity has remained central to his values, shaping the Virgin brand into one of the more visibly queer-friendly corporations worldwide. He has celebrated Pride publicly, funded campaigns for marriage equality, and worked with Virgin Unite (his charitable foundation) to support global initiatives aimed at ending discrimination. He’s also owned and supported queer spaces—most notably, the London nightclub Heaven, which became a haven for LGBTQ+ nightlife. In interviews, he’s stated he would be “absolutely delighted” if one of his grandchildren were gay, reflecting the warmth and acceptance he brings to this advocacy.
2013
Courtney Love in a mini kilt
Courtney Love has long held a complex but meaningful place within queer culture. As the frontwoman of Hole and a central figure in the grunge and alternative rock scenes of the 1990s, she embodied a raw, chaotic femininity that challenged mainstream norms—and resonated deeply with many in the LGBTQ+ community. Her unfiltered honesty, punk-glam aesthetic, and open discussions of sexuality made her a queer icon, particularly among queer women and femmes who saw in her a refusal to be silenced or sanitized.
Love has spoken openly about having had relationships with women and has always embraced a fluid sense of identity. She’s also been a vocal supporter of LGBTQ+ rights, performing at benefit concerts and publicly standing up for queer causes. While her persona has sometimes been controversial, her outsider status and refusal to conform have made her a powerful symbol of queer defiance and survival. For many, Courtney Love represents a kind of wild, unapologetic freedom that continues to inspire queer fans across generations.
2013
Bushmills Irish Pipers San Francisco Pride
In 2013, the Bushmills Irish Pipers of San Francisco brought a vibrant Celtic presence to the San Francisco Pride Parade, blending the rich traditions of Irish piping with the city's celebration of LGBTQ+ diversity. Established in 1932, the band is recognized as the oldest continuously active Irish pipe band west of the Mississippi River. Their participation in the Pride Parade showcased a harmonious fusion of cultural heritage and support for inclusivity, resonating with the parade's spirit of unity and acceptance.
Under the leadership of Pipe Major Michael LeBoeuf, the Bushmills Irish Pipers have consistently demonstrated a commitment to community engagement and cultural representation. Their presence at the 2013 Pride Parade exemplified how traditional music ensembles can play a role in contemporary social movements, using the universal language of music to bridge communities and celebrate diversity.
2012
Frank Ocean in a tartan jacket
Frank Ocean is a critically acclaimed American singer, songwriter, and visual artist whose work has had a profound impact on music and queer culture. Rising to prominence with his debut mixtape *Nostalgia, Ultra* and solidifying his status with the Grammy-winning *Channel Orange* (2012), Ocean blends R&B, soul, and experimental pop into deeply emotional, narrative-driven music. Just days before the release of *Channel Orange*, Ocean published a letter on Tumblr revealing that his first love was a man—an unprecedented move for a rising star in the hip-hop and R&B world, where open queerness was rare. The letter was met with widespread praise and marked a watershed moment in both music and queer visibility.
Ocean’s queerness isn’t always explicit in his lyrics, but it permeates his storytelling, often exploring themes of unrequited love, desire, intimacy, and identity with a tender, poetic honesty. His 2016 visual album *Endless* and full-length LP *Blonde* further established him as a boundary-pushing artist unafraid to embrace ambiguity—in genre, gender, and sexuality. Ocean rarely gives interviews and maintains a low public profile, but his cultural influence is enormous. For many queer fans, his vulnerability and refusal to conform offer a deeply resonant form of representation—making him one of the most important queer artists of his generation.